VATICAN CITY — Archbishop Georg Gänswein said yes to the dress.
The dashing former right-hand man to Benedict XVI, the fashion-plate pope, he is now prefect of the papal household under the more austere Pope Francis. In May 2017, Archbishop Gänswein sat in his stately Apostolic Palace office as Andrew Bolton, curator in charge of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, showed him a look book of couture masterpieces that Mr. Bolton felt matched with certain Vatican treasures.
Archbishop Gänswein, in a soutane with purple sash, indifferently flipped pages of designer frocks until he lingered on a luxurious Madame Grès dress inspired by a Franciscan habit.
“They all love that,” Mr. Bolton said of the dress.
The archbishop gradually became enthusiastic as he and Mr. Bolton discussed the role of beauty in the church and Mr. Bolton explained his vision for the project that would explore the way the Catholic church had served as an inspiration to designers through the centuries. Then things really started rolling.
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Mr. Bolton received authorization from senior Vatican officials to borrow the vestments. He was also granted full access to the Sistine Chapel Sacristy and became so close with its custodian priests in his 10 trips to Rome that they entrusted him with the hidden chamber’s keys and opened secret doors, behind which elderly nuns ironed the pope’s white vestments.
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